Archive for the 'Kymco' Category
Today is a big day for fans of the Honda Club. Finally SYM has released the SYMBA scooter in the United States
Through its United states distributor, Carter Brothers Manufacturing Co., Inc., Sanyang Industry Co., Ltd., (SYM) is pleased to announce the arrival of the "SYMBA" - the U.S. version of its popular "WoWOW".
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With the SYMBA scooter now released, SYM now offers the full range from 50cc-300cc. The SYMBA was called the SYM’s Wowow in Asia but the name change reflects the Honda “tiger cub” roots.
SYM actually manufactured the Honda tiger club for over 40 years so they know what they are doing.
So what about the SYMBA key statistics?
- It will Cost = $ 2,598
- Maximum Speed = 56 mph
- Mileage (mpg@mph) =153@25
- Fuel Capacity(gal) =1.08
The New SYMBA will also come with few accessories such as the front basket, large rear rack and bench seat:
For all of the Honda Cub fans who miss their little machine your are now lucky at getting a chance to ride one again.
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I have an Agility 125 which just turned 1,000 miles. The scoot has exceeded my expectations in most ways. I added a Givi Top Case, beyond that it is stock. My seat is loose but not a concern. It will latch if the seat is gently dropped from about 8″up and also latches when I sit. Right control assembly is loose but works fine when riding. I may check for the inside screws. I use the cheapest fuel possible from brand name stations and have had no issues. My mileage is typically 68mpg+ with most of my riding on 45mph+ roads. Local stations just started adding 10% ethanol. The scoot does feel a little down on power since but mileage has remained constant.
Step 1: Make sure you have the engine kill switch selected (check image below for more information)
Step 2:Next step is to remove the light and cell phone charger jack. Remove the screws securing the battery cover and carburettor cover. Remove the 4 bolts securing the “met-in” box and lift it out to the scooter.
Step 3: View the seat/ “met-in” box removed
Step 4: Remove the screws and small plastic panels on both sides
Step 5: Remove 2 bolts holding black plastic to the frame. Remove 2 screws near gas cap. Remove screw in colored plastic at the body seam and the screw attaching colored plastic to black plastic in engine compartment.
Step 6: Remove black plastic piece (with lid to gas cap) and replace gas cap.
Step 7: Note the flexibility of the colored plastic body. This will allow for removal of the valve cover in a bit.
Step 8: The part circled in red is the valve cover. This is what must be removed before you can inspect valves.
Removal of the valve cover requires the removal of 4 bolts, 2 nuts and 2 hoses.
The top 2 bolts and top hose can be seen in this picture. (circled in green)
Step 9: Now to the bottom right half of the valve cover. Remove the bolt and hose. The bolts and nuts can be removed with standard wrenches.
Step 10: Remove the 4th bolt and two nuts on the bottom left of the valve cover.
You will probably observe the valve cover separate from the cylinder head a bit. A little oil may drip from the now separated parts.
Now on to the trickiest part of the job, removing the valve cover from the bike. To do this, push down on the back half of the bike to change the orientation of the engine relative to the frame. Whilst you are doing this with you right hand, try to wiggle valve cover free with your left. Flex the colored body plastic (not too much) to make a gap a gap for the cover to slip through. This may take several tries, but you will get it eventually. Just think of the time saved by not taking all the body plastic off.
Step 11: Next get the engine to stop dead center. To do this you will have to turn the engine by hand while you look at the two visual indicators.
Begin by removing the three bolts holding the chrome piece onto the crank case. (note that oil filer is dangerously close to one of the bolts. Make sure the oil filer is blocked when removing the bolts to prevent bolts from dropping into your engine.) Remove the circular hatch (upper left) part with a screw driver.
Step 12: Sandwiched between the fly wheel and the chrome plate you just removed is small easy to loose part. (see spring next to it.)
Step 13: With a 19mm sprocket, begin rotating the engine clockwise.
Step 14: The engine will be at “TDC” when the “T” mark on the flywheel aligns with the index mark on the case and the circle timing chain sprocket is visible.
Step 15: Select the blade on a feeler guage with a thickness of 0.1mm and slide into the gap as shown. If the blade will not fit the gap, the gap is too tight and must be let out 0.1mm.
If the blade is not be contacted on both sides, the gap is too big and must be closed 0.1mm
If its clear that the blade is being contacted both sides and passed through the gap with a small amount of friction, you are in good shape.
Step 16: If the valves need adjustment loosen the nut (see image below) and either unscrew or screw by hand until the proper gap is reached. Hold the adjusting screw in place with an adjustable wrench while you tighten down the nut.
Inspect the gap with feeler gauge to ensure the gap did not change while you where tightening the nut down.
Step 17: You may want to get an extra gasket on hand before you do your adjustment. Although the seal is rubber and reusable, it does wear out over time and can be damaged in the process. You never know exactly what you are going to find out when the cover is off so its better to be prepared.
Thats it! You just saved $100+ and now you know even more about the scooter you love. Now if you kept everything organized assembly should be quick and painless.
The many practical uses for a GPS device have been expanded even further than the average consumer may expect. For one, GPS can assist in helping with the recovery of your stolen scooter! Here’s how:
The Innovation of the LoJack
The LoJack Stolen Vehicle Recovery System is a motorcycle tracking system than can be installed after the initial purchase of your bike. It allows vehicles to be tracked by police after the motorcycle/scooter is reported missing. The LoJack’s manufacturer claims a 90% recovery rate, and for good reason - the LoJack is unmatched by competitors when it comes to stolen vehicle recovery.
How the LoJack Works
The LoJack takes a page from cutting-edge GPS technology’s book and goes it one further. It employs a radio frequency technology, that actually allows it penetrate walls. If your stolen car happens to be
stashed in someone’s garage or building - or even if it’s concealed by dense foliage - LoJack’s radio frequency technology can find it.
The LoJack, named as such to sound as though the device is the “antithesis of hijack,” has assisted in the retrieval of over 200,000 vehicles worldwide since its introduction nearly twenty years ago.
Another key feature that helps police locate stolen vehicles with the use of the LoJack is its Police Tracking Computers, or PTCs. These devices are directly installed within the patrol cars themselves.
Where applicable, PTCs may also be installed in helicopters and other aircraft.
One Example of LoJack’s Success
Recently, a New York Surgeon was walking out of a movie in Yonkers on a Sunday evening, only to realize that his 2006 Honda motorcycle had been stolen from the parking lot outside the theater. Soon
thereafter, the Yonkers Police Department was able to quickly recover the doctor’s motorcycle - and all with the help of the LoJack For Motorcycles. The recovery happened literally within minutes of the
doctor’s call to the YPD.
For the road warrior, the rebel, a weekend journey into the unknown on a motorcycle can be the height of adventure and freedom. Now, with the help of a new TomTom device - the RIDER 2nd Edition, which is made for motorcycles - the motorcycle lover can enhance his or her trip even further. The RIDER 2nd Edition is a motorcycle gps that has many desirable features, including Fuel Prices Service, TomTom Map Share, the Help Me! feature, and TomTom Traffic, complete with a 30-day free trial, which includes brand new maps of the highest graphical quality.
Additionally, bikers now have access to dedicated trip statistics that can make any road trip much simpler. The feature allows the biker to view the average and maximum speeds at which he or she traveled per journey, the distance from home, and the total miles traveled.
Even if you’ve previously purchased the RIDER device in one of its earlier incarnations, you can still benefit immensely from the updated software features - and software may be updated for free using TomTom HOME. Completely new maps are available with TomTom HOME as well. If a new map is purchased - along with a 2 GB DB card (which must be bought separately) - users will then also be able to easily take advantage of TomTom Map Share.
TomTom also offers a map guarantee. The guarantee states that if any new map is released within thirty days of the time the GPS user begins using his or her device, then it may be downloaded for free.
The new enhanced RIDER 2nd Edition comes already equipped with the newest Tele Atlas maps of North America as well. Comprehensive maps of both Canada and the United States make up the set.
With the advent of the RIDER software, motorcycle aficionados can now enjoy the same inventive features that users of the automobile products have enjoyed for some time. Best of all, it’s just in time for summer - prime motorcycle season.
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Short answer is no!
Sadly the KYMCO 500 that is offered in the U.S. is a gas pig and a bit lethargic on the road. It doesn’t have good/useable underseat storage, the gas gauge is quirky and the odometer and speedometer read in kilometers.
Now don’t get ticked, I would recommend a KYMCO (and have) to many riders, they make great bikes 250cc and below. I have a Grand Vista and a Honda Reflex. The Grand Vista is put together much better for fit and finish but I only have 1500 miles on it so far, time will tell how reliable it is. I have 14,000 miles on my Reflex and haven’t had a single issue.
Probably the best all around large scooter in the U.S. is a Burgman 400. Good useable power, better than average mpg from most reports, reliable motor and a big dealer network. Oh, and the largest underseat storage available for you toury types.
Now the kicker is the new Xciting 500r with fuel injection that is slated to arrive in the fall.
That could be a real nice bike, I understand it comes with ABS standard. So if you could
wait a little bit maybe you could try that one out for size.
EDIT: I have heard that The New Exciting 500 will come in two configurations. Both are Fuel Injected and one will have ABS and the other won’t.
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As far as ABS is concerned Ive learned to accept its value and lifesaving properties on 4 wheels as its come on so many times when driving my car. Probably a reflection of how bad a driver I really am. I’m sure today its improved on 2 wheels anyway and will offer a real contribution to anyone who has it fitted I have read many times in the motor cycle magazines I read of so called professional riders who turn it off as they have better control without ABS.
A control I can’t say I have even though Ive ridden for over 40 years. Despite my numerous number of offs due to high speed or lack of experience, but I applaud these experts but would caution anyone without that level of expertise to be cautious in their own ability to outperform a factory fitted system like ABS. I did however, the other day have a need of a panic braking system and my 08 Burgman doesn’t have ABS fitted although it does have the linked braking system as fitted as standard. I did apply the left hand dual brake in emergency and the back brake locked up and gave me an interesting situation by locking up and stepping out which I wasn’t ready for.
I was fortunate and my reactions kept the bike upright and no problem but it was the first time Id locked the back wheel since I can’t remember causing me, now I do it was a 150cc Lambretta that caused me some consternation when it locked up on the rear brake and I ended up running into the back of a truck at slow speed with my back brake locked and the rear wheel skidding much again to my embarrassment as I damaged the front of the scooter and the front wheel jammed under the rear step of the truck in front locking the wheel under the step of the peoples carrier and my being in a position of not being able to remove it until they pulled forward and released my front wheel..
My note is to those on linked systems i.e. k series 400s and alike. Be aware that linked braking systems are indeed excellent but not foolproof. Its worth a note my k8 when delivered wasn’t the smoothest of the bunch and clanked and banged a little when new but now has calmed down with use and although the clutch uptake is still higher than the 03 its not a problem event though it records 4k on the clutch engage which I challenge.
I guess its nearer 3k and the recorded revs on engaging to be optimistic as the final speed generally tends to be. Anyway the bike is operating well and it seems to be settling in now Ive got a few miles on it. In comparison with the 03 its got more grunt at lower revs and wants to go faster when the open road calls but until I get the first service done I will keep the revs down.
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You have to turn the keyed ignition off any time you walk away from your steed, and take the key with you, so from that standpoint it doesn’t matter if you stop the motor with the handlebar kill switch.
Having said that, when I ride one of my two wheelers and it has a handle bar kill switch, that is how i stop the motor, then i turn the ignition off and remove the key if I leave the steed unattended in a public parking area.
Another benefit the handlebar kill switch affords is the ability to quickly stop the motor, w/o removing your hand from the hand grip.
One disadvantage to using this switch instead of the key only, if you turn the motor off with the kill switch and forget to turn the ignition off with the key, you will drain the battery flat. i know, I’ve done it many times on various two wheelers, including my Super 9, and i did it quite a few times with the People 150 I used to own/ride.
Both those scooters, the head light only turns on after the motor is running so stopping the motor with the kill switch and leaving the ignition on with the key, the head light wont stay on to remind you to turn the key to the off position.
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1. At what point should this belt be checked or replaced?
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=+site:www.tradebit.com+kymco+manuals , the belt on the X-500 needs to be checked, not replaced every 12,000 miles. This is also listed in the owner’s manual. Most other manufactures state that belts should be replaced at a specific interval, usually around 12,000 miles or so. The Yamaha Majesty even has a light in the dash that comes on at 12,000 miles telling you to have the belt replaced. Why Kymco only requires a inspection instead of a replacement I don’t know.
2. What are the possible problems that could occur?
As far as replacing the belt it doesn’t look like too difficult a job. My X-500 only has 2300 miles on it right now. At the recommended 12,000 miles I’ll pull the drive belt cover off and measure the belt the way it shows in the manual. If it is out of specs I will replace it.
3. What are the symptoms of a belt going bad?
I would guess that when the belt is worn it will begin to slip and the RPMs at a given speed will start to rise higher than it would normally be at that same speed. Or maybe the belt just snaps and leaves you stranded in the middle of nowhere. If you only use your scooter around town you could probably ride it until the belt breaks. Then call a friend with a pickup to come rescue you. But if you use your scooter for long distance rides I would just replace it every 12,000 miles or so just to be safe.
4. What are some places/internet-sites that a belt could be purchased other than a Kymco Dealer?
I have seen after market belts listed for the X-500 here, http://www.scootertrap.com/Xciting500.htm
but as you can see they are $170.00. I’m going to guess that the OEM Kymco belt is much
cheaper and probably just as durable.
5. Is it better to get another brand of belt rather than a Kymco and if so why?
I’m going to give you my 2 cents worth about Kymco parts. Kymco builds a very nice product and the parts they use, almost all of which they make themselves, a rare thing nowadays, are first rate. Meaning they are on par with what you would get from one of the big Japanese motorcycle companies, only much less expensive. Kymco parts are not poorly manufactured Chinese crap. And even though Taiwan is just off the coast of China, companies in Taiwan build parts nothing like those in China. Many years ago I would buy machine tools from Taiwan and the tools where and I’m sure still are first rate, unlike those made in China. Before I would go looking at aftermarket parts, even those made in the good old US of A, that claim to be superior
in some way to the OEM Kymco parts I would want to see some type of proof and not just an opinion of them being better before I would pay a premium price for them. In other words I would stick with OEM parts which will in the case of Kymco, probably be less expensive
and just as good.
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No, the Grand Vista is a great ride and I highly recommend it.
Pros:
Solid design.
Large storage.
Very nimble and quick.
Steady at high speeds.
KYMCO reliability.
Cons:
Small gas tank.
Hard seat.
High seat.
Cramped seating.
Short windscreen makes for noisy ride at high speeds.
Truly a great bike and fun to ride. The digital dash let’s you switch between kilometers
and miles. The electric folding mirrors are a fun and practical for storage. The bike is so
very solid and nimble when riding. You can mod the seat and the windscreen for better
comfort if you ride longer.
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